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Spinach Recall Begs For
Solutions
Long after all the contaminated spinach is off the
shelves, the spinach crisis goes on. We have already discussed the
impact of this crisis on fresh-cuts
here, on organics
here, given an initial take on ten
points raised by this outbreak
here and pointed out that the FDA
is now acting beyond any reasonable concern about public health
here.
Today brings additional issues to the fore:
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RLB
Food Distributors, in West Caldwell, New Jersey, became
the third company to announce a voluntary recall as it recalled
salad mixes that may contain spinach purchased from Natural
Selection Foods. These salad mixes were sold under the Balducci’s
and FreshPro brands. Though the recall is pointless at this point,
the fact it comes so late into the crisis is bad news.
One of the things we’ve learned is that the industry’s trace-back
mechanisms are imperfect and the industry’s trace-forward mechanisms
are horrible.
As late as yesterday, the FDA said that 20% of those patients who
have reported eating spinach have claimed they ate a brand not on
the recalled list from Natural Selection Foods and River Ranch.
Some of this may be mistaken memory; some of it may be true, but not
the source of contamination. In other words, someone might have
eaten a bag of spinach with a specific label but gotten sick because
the sandwich they bought in a restaurant had tainted spinach on it.
But a problem that has dogged this investigation from the start is
that there is no easy way to identify all the brands that may
contain product from one source.
Initially this caused confusion at FDA as they were getting reports
of many different brands and didn’t realize that many of them were
packed by Natural Selection Foods.
Now in the case of River Ranch and RLB, the product wasn’t packed by
Natural Selection Foods; each company bought bulk product and
repacked it.
Clearly, we need a trace-forward registry for every shipper in
which, instantaneously, we can see both what labels they pack under
and what labels any customer of theirs packs under.
Even this is a very incomplete registry because so many products get
purchased through second-hand sources.
Natural Selection Foods has announced that it exported product to
Mexico, Canada and Taiwan. But I’ll bet it is in many other
countries. Many customers don’t buy straight trailerloads of
spinach. They buy mixed loads from an exporter or wholesale grocer
who puts in cases of spring mix, cases of bagged spinach, along with
hundreds of other items. Natural Selection Foods has no way of
knowing where this product is.
And who says that if a processor is short, they don’t run to a local
wholesaler and buy some product? Once again, Natural Selection Foods
would have no idea.
A good registry would help. We can’t let the industry be in a
position again where the FDA is hearing all these brands and not
making a connection. But the real long-term 100% solution is to get
the whole industry working on
RFID and
GTIN solutions.
It is clear we need a solution where every item is tracked at every
step along the way. So if Natural Selection Foods sells a box to a
wholesaler on a terminal market in New York City, who then sells it
to a wholesaler in Buffalo, who then sells it to a processor, we can
enter the original source and find that carton’s current location.
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The FDA has about a
dozen inspectors on the ground in Salinas. There are over 10,000
acres in spinach in Monterey County alone. They may find some
violations of Good Agricultural Practices — once before they found a
well without a cover, which was supposed to be covered to prevent
animals from falling in or other contamination — but they could find
those types of violations if they went anywhere in the country.
The odds of the inspectors finding evidence in the fields that they
can identify as the cause of this particular outbreak are not very
good. It is the nature of agriculture. You are going back to a place
where the crop in question was long ago harvested. A well can be
infected one day and not infected a week later. It just is not the
kind of thing that can usually be established with any certainty
weeks and months after the fact.
And if they did find that an animal violated a field and
contaminated the water supply? One wonders what, precisely, they
would do with this information.
It is obvious that the solution will not be in the fields. Sure,
Good Agricultural Practices can be refined, and the FDA has applied
its
letter, originally sent to lettuce farmers, to spinach as well.
This may all help.
We can and should take more dramatic steps such as banning the use
of animal manure in agriculture. But it is the processing plant that
is the only hope. Product can be tested there, new procedures
developed to wash and clean product.
It is clear we are moving toward universal testing at every plant.
Ground beef is much less serious as an E. coli problem because, if
properly cooked, the E. coli dies. But as we all remember from the
Jack in the Box
food safety
incident, ground beef is not always
properly cooked. So, today, the Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS)
of the USDA inspects a random sample of ground beef-producing
facilities:
About the Testing Program
On October 17, 1994, FSIS began a microbiological testing program to
detect Escherichia coli O157:H7 in raw ground beef. The objective of
the testing program is to detect E. coli O157:H7, and to stimulate
industry action to reduce the presence of the pathogen in raw ground
beef. Since the initiation of the FSIS testing program, some
grinders have instituted their own programs and routinely test their
ground beef products or raw materials used in ground beef products
for E. coli O157:H7. Others have begun requiring suppliers of raw
boneless beef to test for and certify that the organism is not
detectable in the product. Over time, FSIS has taken steps to
improve the public health effectiveness of this testing program by
detection of lower numbers of this pathogen through increased sample
size and adoption of new more sensitive methods (see footnote
following
Table 2).
There are approximately 1,700 establishments producing ground beef
under FSIS inspection, and approximately 100,000 retail outlets
grind beef on a regular basis. Each month, inspected plants and
retail outlets are selected randomly for sample collection. Also,
imported ground beef products collected by FSIS Import Inspection
personnel and ground beef products produced at state inspected
establishments and collected by comparable state program personnel
are analyzed. FSIS based its sampling plan on information from
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) sentinel sites that
collect data on foodborne disease, historic data on outbreaks of
foodborne illness, and information developed by the Office of Public
Health Science (OPHS). On February 29, 2000, FSIS held a public
meeting to discuss the Agency's policy regarding E. coli O157:H7 and
new information concerning the pathogen and its relation to human
health. Based on new data concerning E. coli O157:H7, the FSIS E.
coli O157:H7 Risk Assessment, and information from the February 29,
2000, public meeting, FSIS is continuing to evaluate its E. coli
O157:H7 policy and testing program.
Here is the data so far for
2006.
Fresh-cut processors are not operators of produce packingsheds; they
are operators of food processing facilities, and, as that
realization dawns, they will be held to significantly tougher
standards than they have been.
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If you listen to
all the consumer-press reporters talk to the FDA, you realize how
ignorant most are about agriculture in general and produce in
particular. I’ve been speaking with my counterparts in the consumer
media all week, and it is a full time job to talk them off the
cliff. Since 73% of the people who have gotten sick are female, more
than one reporter has wanted my opinion on this “new pathogen” that
is especially dangerous to women.
Yet, of course, the most likely explanation is that more women eat
spinach salads than men. It is a very hard job to educate consumer
media because they are not interested in being educated until the
crisis is upon us. Still, we need better resources to be ready to
spring into action if needed.
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It is worth
remembering that this entire outbreak is built on circumstantial
evidence. As of yet, not one bag the FDA has been given has tested
positive for E. coli 0157:H7, not one field or facility has tested
positive. The entire case is built on reports by 50 people
identifying that they had eaten bagged spinach.
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The basic problem
with the FDA is that the standard they are utilizing to continue
this recommendation not to eat spinach is sweeping with far too
broad a brush. You can argue that the specific processing plant
where this product was produced needs to be thoroughly investigated.
You can even argue that the fields of growers who produced spinach
that was used at that plant during this period need to be
investigated. But there is no basis in the evidence we have that
eating spinach grown elsewhere is any more dangerous than any other
product vulnerable to E. coli contamination. And there is no reason
to think when the FDA gives an “all clear” that we can’t get a
contamination the next day.
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The core issue
for the produce industry and society is this: David Acheson, MD, who
is chief medical officer at FDA’s Center for Food Safety and Applied
Nutrition, said at a press conference: “Clearly we are not where we
need to be or this outbreak wouldn’t have happened.”
One wonders if he means it. There have been 19 foodborne illness
outbreaks linked to lettuce or spinach in the past 11 years, eight
traced to produce grown in Salinas. I am all in favor of toughening
our standards. I think our food supply should be the safest in the
world. I think we can make it safer. But in dealing with a live
product, safety issues will arise.
I don’t know if the good doctor is wise to say that any outbreak is
evidence of a failure. Would he really recommend banning growing
outdoors and causing the population to incur the cost of all
greenhouse-grown product to avoid, say, one outbreak every other
year?
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Here is a
suggestion for PMA since its convention is right around the
corner. Have Janet Erickson, Chairman of PMA and Executive VP,
Purchasing & Quality Assurance of Del Taco, call her peers at Jack
in the Box and see if David Theno, Ph.D., will give a presentation
at the convention.
He was brought in as a consultant right after Jack in the Box had
its E. coli disaster. He stayed on and eventually became Sr. Vice
President, Quality and Logistics. I’ve heard him speak and he gives
an excellent presentation on what Jack in the Box did to recover
from the horror.
Dr. Theno focuses on four myths, all relevant to the current
controversy:
Myth #1:
Meat quality doesn't vary appreciably from one supplier to the next.
Myth #2: Testing for E. coli 0157:H7 is ineffective.
Myth #3: Testing for E. coli 0157:H7 is expensive.
Myth #4: Government will take care of the food-supply
problem.
I know the PMA program has long been set, but some improvisation
here would be valuable. You can read a short piece Dr. Theno wrote
on these myths right
here.
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Another
similarity with the Jack in the Box situation is that the lawyer
who handled the lawsuits against Jack in the Box and
Odwalla has already
filed a lawsuit as have several others. Interestingly, at least
one of the
lawsuits is against
Fresh Express and its parent,
Chiquita, neither of which the FDA
has implicated in the current outbreak. One thing you can be certain
of is that, in the end, the cost of litigation is going to be
enormous.
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There are three
basic marketing-related questions that people are asking:
A)
Will the market for spinach come back?
B)
Will the sales of other fresh-cuts be affected?
C)
Will over-all produce sales be affected?
The best guess:
A)
Yes, but it will take some time. Much, however, depends on how
retail will deal with the return of spinach to the market. During
the Alar crisis, sales of apples plummeted not solely because of
consumer concern but because retailers stopped promotion of apples.
If retailers get behind spinach, sales would bounce quickly, but
retailers probably will be gun shy and will wait until memories fade
before getting too close to spinach.
B)
Retailers are reporting a slight shift to bulk right now, but it
won’t last. There are vast societal trends (working women, smaller
households, etc.) that drive these trends, and they don’t get
reversed because of a crisis. Indeed, even if fresh-cut were banned,
it is not clear that bulk would be the primary beneficiary — it
might be the deli department.
C) It
may not be nice but it is often true that one man’s problem is
someone else’s opportunity. There is a certain amount of space in
the produce department, a certain number of ad slots in the weekly
newspaper ad. If they can’t go to one item, they have to go to
another. In all probability, difficulties with one item lead to a
rearrangement of space and promotional efforts so overall department
sales are probably not going to be affected in the long term.
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One lesson of all
this is that the food supply is very vulnerable to terrorist attack.
Although none is suspected here, it is just a matter of time.
National shippers provide an easy distribution network for poisons,
and the complexity of our food distribution system means that we
would be quite vulnerable if confronted with situations requiring
the strict quarantine of different cities or regions.
When this crisis is
over, we need to look hard at this problem.
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